|
|
| |
| Do Your Homework |
Responsible stocking begins with planning and research - before the tank is set up. See the links section for a list of sites with great information. If you want to avoid unnecessary deaths, then research the fish you plan to keep and find out (1) how big they get, (2) what their natural environment is, (3) what they eat in the wild, and (4) how territorial they are. Buying an Oscar that gets to be a foot long and expecting it to be happy in a 10 gallon tank isn't only unrealistic, it's cruel. How would you like to be crammed up in a four foot cube? If a 30 gallon tank is all you can afford, that is fine. However, you need to tailor your stocking plan to the size of your tank by choosing fish that reach an appropriate adult size. If all you have is 30 gallons, you'd better leave that oscar in the Amazon until you have a bigger tank.
Matching your aquarium to your fishes natural environment will make them happier in the long run. Fish have evolved in their natural habitats for millions of years, and their physiology and behavior are products of that environment. The temperature, pH, hardness, and a whole host of other parameters affect a fish's metabolism. Your fish will be healthiest if you make sure your aquarium water matches that of their native habitat. Sure fish can adapt to a surprisingly wide range of water conditions, but they will be healthier and live longer if you maintain a very narrow range of pH, temperature, and alkalinity. In addition to their physiology, habitat also shapes the behavior of fish. Species that come from rocky waters with plenty of caves and well-defined territories benifit from the presence of similar structure in the aquarium. Timid species that hide instinctively amongst dense vegetation in the wild almost require vegetation in the aquarium. Without adequate cover and hiding spaces fish can feel vulnerable and exposed, and this source of stress can eventually lead to disease.
Nutrition is obviously vital to your fishes health. It is as important as water quality for promoting healthy fish, and yet nutrition is one of the most overlooked aspects of aquatic husbandry. It is imperative that you find out whether your fish are herbivorous, carnivorous, or omnivorous. Most flake foods contain both plant and animal matter, but while they will keep most tropical fish alive, they are not the ideal staple for most (or any) species. Read more here.
Finally, make sure you know the behavior of your fish before you buy them. Do not mix very timid fish with aggressive, territorial species. Territorial bullying is second only to poor water quality as a source of fish mortality. Some fish are social and timid and are great in densely populated, mixed communities. Others are territorial and are best kept with other territorial fish, because their constant chasing and bullying can easily kill more timid fish. Then there are those species that are so big and agressive that they are best kept singly, lest they eat anything small enough to fit into their mouths. Compatability doesn't only apply to fish either. Try to keep snails in a tank full of Jack Dempseys (Cichlasoma octofasciatum) and see what happens!
|
| Choosing Specimens |
| Careful attention to selecting good healthy specimens is the first step in avoiding disease outbreaks in your aquarium. Look for specimens that are lively, alert and colorful. Avoid individuals with badly eroded fins, clamped fins, cloudy eyes, or any obvious external wounds or sores. Certainly steer clear of any fish from a tank with dead fish in it! If there are no suitable specimens of a particular fish that you want, either wait until the local fish store gets more in, try a different LFS, or consider different species. It is not worth buying a sick fish just because you had your heart set on owning that particular species. |
| Acclimating New Arrivals |
Once you get your new, healthy specimens home, the next challenge is to keep them healthy. It is alwas advisable to quarantine all new arrivals for 2 to 4 weeks before adding them to the display to be sure they really are healthy. Diseases often take one to two weeks or longer to show themselves. After quarantine, proper acclimation is the key stocking the tank successfully. First, do not rush the process. Fish are extremely sensitive to rapid changes to temperature and water chemistry.
At the very least, turn off the lights and float the shipping bag in the aquarium long enough for the water temperature to match that of the aquarium, a minimum of 30 minutes. When releasing the fish into the aquarium, net it out of the bag. Never add fish store water into your tank!
A better approach to acclimation is to float the bag for fifteen minutes (again, in a dark tank to limit stress) then add 1/4 cup of aquarium water. Repeat this every 15 minutes for an hour, then net the fish into the aquarium.
The best way to acclimate fish is to place the shipping bag below the level of the aquarium and slowly drip in aquarium water through a narrow siphon hose. Airline tubing works well for this purpose. Tying a loose knot in the tubing allows you to control the flow rate. You want to aim for a very slow trickle: one drop every second or two. Let this go until the bag is full (it's not a bad idea to put the bag in a bucket to catch any overflow if you forget about it). At this point you can net the fish into its new home. |
| |
|
|
|
|
